Taking a sabbatical
After saving up some money I decided it was time to take a break from work and do something that had been on my bucket list my whole life: backpacking. I booked a one-way ticket to Moscow and nine months later I came back reborn.
Like 'rule', not like 'Noel'
After saving up some money I decided it was time to take a break from work and do something that had been on my bucket list my whole life: backpacking. I booked a one-way ticket to Moscow and nine months later I came back reborn.
Three days in Moscow to start, still with the feeling I was on holiday rather than nine months from home. I walked the city, slept out in the suburbs, and on the fourth day got on a train heading east.
So many days on a train I forgot when it was day and when it was night. Drinking vodka and making music with the locals on board. Once I gave in to the length of the ride it became one of the most relaxed trips I have ever had. I got off at Lake Baikal, still frozen over in March, then took a second train south across the border at Naushki into Mongolia and on to Ulan Bator.
Five weeks and I still only scratched it. The caves at Datong, Beijing, the Terracotta Army at Xi'an, the plank walk up Hua Shan, then the stone pillars of Zhangjiajie standing in the mist. Pandas in Chengdu, and three days walking Tiger Leaping Gorge to finish.
I bought a motorbike for a hundred dollars and rode it north: the Ho Chi Minh Road, the Hai Van Pass, Khe Sanh, and an abandoned waterpark outside Hue. Then the caves at Phong Nha, the place I fell in love with Vietnam. The karsts of Ninh Binh and Halong Bay, and Sapa up in the mountains to finish.
Two days on a slow boat down the Mekong from the Thai border to Luang Prabang, sitting on a wooden bench watching the jungle go by. Then Vang Vieng, where the river is full of backpackers in rubber rings, and out again to the south.
A month working down the coast: Bangkok, Hua Hin, then the boat out of Chumphon to Koh Tao, the cheapest island in the world to get your diving certificate. So I got mine there. Then on to Ko Pha Ngan, where a week turns into three without me noticing.
The insane history of the Khmer Rouge first, which is not something you walk away from lightly. Then five days of diarrhoea. Then the temples of Angkor Wat.
Three days in Kuala Lumpur, honestly more a stopover than a destination. What I remember best is a friend on the road who tried not to get sick from street food by only eating at stalls where the cooks wore plastic gloves. Then one of them turned round, took a piss without taking them off, and handed her her dinner.
Five weeks up the east coast from Sydney to Cairns, sharing a ride with a Dutch farmer driving his 4x4 across the country, along with another Dutch guy and a French one. Best group of the whole trip. Byron, Fraser Island, Agnes Water, Rockhampton, and snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef to finish.
Six weeks across both islands in a small campervan, rented together with Yuki, a Japanese girl I met in a share-a-ride group online. The west coast first, the pancake rocks at Punakaiki, Greymouth and Hokitika, then inland to Wanaka, Cromwell and Twizel.
I went back to the one place I hadn't stopped thinking about. A month around Phong Nha and Dong Hoi, doing very little, in the same corner that had got me in May.
Three days in Singapore with a friend I had met in Vietnam who convinced me to come along.
Two weeks on an island in the south to finish, doing nothing much on purpose. Then a flight home, nine months after I left, with a very different idea of how big the world is.
USA · Indonesia · Chile, Argentina & Peru
That is the story so far. Work, questions, or just hello: this is the place.
Fair warning, the form is shy.